Our Fabulous Fall Road Trip Part I – The Pilgrimage

With the exception of Wyoming, all the states we visited or drove through were a first for some or all of our family. Total driving miles: 3,600. Our itinerary before the trip was as follows (Changes to the itinerary and comments on the trip are in italics.):

October 10 – Sat
Leave at 6 am
Drive 12 hours to Hays, Ks (arrive around 8pm – with two hours of stops)
We really did leave at 6! However, we stopped WAY more than we thought, including a stop outside of Denver to have our tires rotated. Our big van drove like a drunken sailor, swaying and drifting all over the place and Wendell correctly thought that maybe there was some uneven wear on the front tires. So we switched them to the back and the problem disappeared! We pulled into Hays at 11 pm. (10 Utah time).

October 11 – Sun
Attend 9 am church in Hays
Drive to 4 hours to Independence, MO
Visit Independence sites in afternoon

Attending church in Hays was great. We felt enriched by the spirit of the Lord and the humble farming community there. Kansas sunrises are awesome! We arrived in Independence in the late afternoon and raced to the Community of Christ temple, leaving Gramma and the littles (Anna and William) at the hotel. We got there at 3:55, five minutes before their 4 pm closing time. They kindly let us stay until 4:30. We all really enjoyed the temple. It was very different from our own temples, but still very beautiful. The spiral ceiling was very cool, mostly because the spiral is such a perfect image. It is so pleasing to the eyes and sensibilities. The quality of light there was also very pleasing. At the Community of Christ temple make sure to pick up the brochure put out by the LDS church called “Historic Sites: A quick reference guide with maps to various L.D.S. historical sites in the Northwest Missouri area.”  Strangely we found this brochure not at the LDS church visitors center (maybe it was there but we missed it) but at the Community of Christ temple. The map was a wonderful resource for finding the rest of the sites we went to in the area.

Next we visited the LDS Church Visitors Center. This was a good place to go for an introduction to the history of Mormons in the early days of the church. It was quite thorough, and a little slow moving in my opinion. I think Anna and William would have died if they had to have sat through the whole presentation. I can’t decide though how much the information would have helped an uninformed visitor or not. I think if time is not an issue, and there are no small children, and the missionary giving the presentation isn’t long winded, and the person visiting knows nothing about the history of that area, then for sure visit and do the tour.

I had planned for us to do the walking tour of various significant sights but we were all too tired. A link that I appreciated for planning our visit to Independence can be found here.

October 12 – Mon
Sight-seechurch history sights around Independence  (Liberty, Richmond, Far West, Haun’s Mill Adam-ondi-Ahman (3 ½ hours of driving to sites) 3 hours for seeing sites then 3 ½ hour drive to Nauvoo
Spend night in Nauvoo (arrive at 9pm)
This day was one of our favorites! I had debated before the trip whether we should visit these spots or not and I am SO GLAD we did. Our first stop was Liberty Jail, which is the restored jail where Joseph Smith was imprisoned for four frigid, dark months. It was during this time that he received by revelation Sections 121 & 122 in one of our book of scripture, the Doctrine & Covenants. We all found this stop very moving and spiritually enriching. Especially because we had prepared for it by listening to/reading Elder Jeffrey Holland’s talk called “Lessons from Liberty Jail“.

Next we visited Richmond where we saw the graves of Oliver Cowdery and the Whitmer Family (Some of the witnesses to the Book of Mormon.) in the old city cemetery (On the corner of Crispin and Thornton Streets) and the monument to Alexander Doniphan, the non-Mormon brigadier general of the Missouri Militia who was ordered to kill an innocent Joseph Smith. Doniphan said, “It is cold blooded murder. I will not obey your order. . . . [I]f you execute these men, I will hold you responsible before an earthly tribunal, so help me God”.  Joseph Smith and other leaders lives were spared for a time thanks to the courage of this man. The monument is located next to the Richmond courthouse.

After Richmond we went to Far West. This was my favorite stop for the day. Far West is a dedicated site for a temple. The cornerstones were laid in on July 4, 1838 but the extermination order by Lilburn Boggs, Missouri’s governor in October of that year and the expulsion of the Mormons from the state in the spring of 1839 halted all further progress on the temple. Despite the fact that there is no temple there it is definitely sacred ground. We all felt the solemnity of the spot and the sacred nature of it. It was so peaceful, so beautiful.  I wanted to lay down on the grass and let the breeze go over me and the sun warm my face. I wanted soak in the spirit of that spot. The main thing I can definately say is that this place indescribably and profoundly changed me.

Next stop was Haun’s Mill, the site of the massacre that took the lives of seventeen Mormon men, women and children including one elderly man who had fought for freedom and our nation’s independence in the Revolutionary War.  This was such a lovely place too. It would be a place I would have chosen to live if I had been around during that time. It had a lovely tree-lined river flowing by a scenic clearing. I’m not sure if it was because of the season, with the year coming to a close, or because there was no one around or what, but all of these sites seemed sad to me. It seemed as though the tragic history of these places permeated the very landscape. I felt this in Nauvoo as well. This was a beautiful corner of the world, fertile and lush (maybe not so much in October), but what were once rapidly growing and thriving communities are now exactly the opposite, sparsely populated and somewhat depressed. Travel tip: the road out to Haun’s Mill is very rough and not easily accessible. We were grateful for our great, big van on that rough road. It is my opinion that a regular car could make it if special care is taken while driving and only when the road is dry.

Haun’s Mill was a nice spot, but I was suddenly plunged into a bad mood because Sam and William decided to explore the river bed. Sam heedlessly walked to the river’s edge and ended up to his shins in mud that completely covered his shoes.  William took his shoes and socks off before he went in but was still impossible to clean off with just wipes, kleenex and water bottles.

Our last stop of the day before heading to Nauvoo was Adam-ondi-ahman. This was Grant’s favorite place of the day and indeed it was very lovely. For some reason our cameras were misbehaving so we really don’t have any great pictures.

So, all in all, I felt like every stop that day was worthwhile. I think if we had to take one out for the sake of time I would chose Richmond. It was interesting, but not as moving as the other sites.

Also, we pulled into Nauvoo quite late and didn’t realize that there is NOWHERE to eat or buy food in Nauvoo after 8 pm. For any travelers reading this who are contemplating this trip, please make sure you eat before you get to Nauvoo if arriving in the evening. We could have eaten in Keokuk, Iowa (20 minutes before you get to Nauvoo) but we were eager to get to our lodgings. We got to the house where we were staying and decided to go out in search for dinner and groceries. There is nothing in or around Nauvoo. We ended up driving to Ft. Madison, Iowa (20 minutes northwest of Nauvoo).

October 13 – Tues
See Carthage (1 hour away round trip)
Spend day and night in Nauvoo
This day we had a little change of plans. Instead of trying to pack in the sites of Nauvoo and a side trip to Carthage we decided to slow down a little and have a marvelous sleep-in morning.

We stayed in a private home that we found on VRBO that worked out great. The rate was reasonable and it’s location perfect. It was just a few minutes (less than 5) from historic Nauvoo and right on the Mississippi river.

We started at the Nauvoo Visitors Center.  Anyone who goes to Nauvoo should start there. We got our free wagon tour tickets, and our tickets for the production that evening done by the senior missionaries called, “Rendezvous in Old Nauvoo” which was the cheesiest, sweetest, most entertaining show ever. I can’t even imagine how difficult it would be to secure spots for either activity during the busy season. As it was, we got the last six tickets (they conveniently overlooked our last two children so we could see it!) The senior missionaries were so kind and you could tell they loved their missions. Nauvoo was a lovely place and as I mentioned before it seemed a little sad. This place was now so quiet and lonely feeling. If it hadn’t been for the senior missionaries, there would have been no life or activity there!

The wagon tour was a great way to see the city. The tour guide shared interesting facts about the city both what it was and what it is now.  Also, the brochure and map you get at the visitors center areessential for seeing the sites.

We spent the afternoon touring around the city starting with the Family Living Center where there were hands-on demonstrations on 19th century trades and homemaking skills like spinning, bread making, candle making, pottery, rope and barrel making. Here the children are helping make rope. This was a great place for the kids but again, I can’t imagine how crowded it would be during the summer. We practically had the whole place to ourselves! I understand though that if we had been there in the summer we could have participated in the Pioneer Pastimes, activities for children’s entertainment authentic to the 19th century. These activities are not offered during the off-season.

  The Browning Home and Gunsmith was one of our favorite places to visit. The home was well preserved and the guns were very interesting. This is what the brochure says about this spot: “Tour the Jonathan Browning Home and Gun Shop and learn about the humble beginnings of the worldwide Browning Arms Corporation. See authentic rifles, handguns, and shotguns from the early 1800s and their present-day counterparts. In this shop, you’ll see a fine display of firearms made by Jonathan and his descendants.”  As a mother of boys who love guns I especially appreciated how Johnathan Browning demonstrated his faith even in the manufacturing of something that can be so destructive. For a time each of his guns bore a small plaque that said, “Holiness to the Lord our preservation”. I have a feeling that if every gun owner in America offered that prayer with each use of the their gun, our country might be a safer place! 

Before the show we made reservations to eat at the Hotel Nauvoo Inn & Restaurant. This place was very busy even during the off season! Apparently it is one of those places where high school students all around the area bring their dates for prom since it is one of the fancier restaurants around. It was a fascinating historical study for sure. I loved the period decorations, AND one of the interior walls was constructed from the original bricks from Joseph Smith’s red brick store. I thought the food was fair, much like what you would find at Chuck-a-Rama or a similar buffet and at $17/adult it is a little pricey.

Most of the senior missionary cast of the charming and marvelously cheesy production, “Rendezvous in Old Nauvoo”.  A must see!

October 14 – Wed
Spend day and night in Nauvoo
Go to Nauvoo temple
This day we left the children at the house with strict instructions to not even go outside while we were gone (I was a little nervous about the close proximity of the river). Wendell, Cathy, Grant and I went to the Nauvoo Temple for an endowment session. That temple was full of a peaceful, glorious feeling. The sorrow I had experienced in all the sites we had visited was gone. No longer did I dwell on places forsaken and wasted or the lost lives of those early saints who suffered and died for their faith. I felt triumph! I caught a glimpse what those early saints must have known,  that good will always win. That good will always vanquish evil. That any sacrifice was and will be worth it for good. That God is over all and in control. And most of all that I want to be on His team. The winning team! No matter how dark the days have been in the past for the faithful, or how dark they may become in the future, we know the end of this story! We know who wins! I am so grateful when the spirit of God touches me like it did in that temple that day. My eyes and heart are opened and my vision broadened.

After the temple we had lunch at the house and then took a trip to Carthage to see the jail where the martyrdom of Joseph Smith and his brother Hyrum took place. Carthage is another very sacred place for me. I am inspired by the ultimate sacrifice that was made there.  Joseph Smith knew that he was going there to die. In fact as he, his brother and those who went with them to Carthage in response to a legal summons  said, “I am going like a lamb to the slaughter; but I am calm as a summer’s morning. I have a conscience void of offense towards God, and towards all men. I shall die innocent, and it shall yet be said of me. ‘He was murdered in cold blood’” (D&C 135:4). (Isaiah 53:7)

I love this Messianic reference in light of what was said of Joseph after his death:

“Joseph Smith, the Prophet and Seer of the Lord, has done more, save Jesus only, for the salvation of men in this world, than any other man that ever lived in it…He lived great, and he died great in the eyes of God and his people; and like most of the Lord’s anointed in ancient times, has sealed his mission and his works with his own blood; and so has his brother Hyrum. In life they were not divided, and in death they were not separated!” Go here for more information on Joseph Smith. And here for an account of what happened that day.

 

The lyrics to the Hymn, “Praise to the Man” sum up my belief in Joseph Smith:
Jesus anointed that Prophet and Seer.
Blessed to open the last dispensation,
Kings shall extol him, and nations revere.
Chorus: Hail to the Prophet, ascended to heaven!
Traitors and tyrants now fight him in vain.
Mingling with Gods, he can plan for his brethren;
Death cannot conquer the hero again.

Praise to his mem’ry, he died as a martyr;
Honored and blest be his ever great name!
Long shall his blood, which was shed by assassins,
Plead unto heav’n while the earth lauds his fame.
Chorus

Great is his glory and endless his priesthood.
Ever and ever the keys he will hold.
Faithful and true, he will enter his kingdom,
Crowned in the midst of the prophets of old.
Chorus

Sacrifice brings forth the blessings of heaven;
Earth must atone for the blood of that man.
Wake up the world for the conflict of justice.
Millions shall know “Brother Joseph” again.
Chorus

Text: William W. Phelps, 1792-1872
Music: Scottish folk song

After Carthage we went back to Nauvoo. Wendell and Cathy went back to the house to rest and Grant had some work to do so the kids and I did a little more touring of the historic city. We made an essential first stop to the fudge stop. The fudge and the chocolate peanut butter covered pretzels were AMAZING! We then went to the brickyard to get our own free souvenir brick and for a fascinating brick making demonstration (Really, it was fascinating!), to the blacksmith shop (a family favorite), the printing press, Brigham Young’s Home (I loved this spot), and the quarry.

We then walked along the Trail of Hope. This was the route the citizens of Nauvoo took when they were driven from the city by mobs in the winter of 1846. It had very poignant quotations on plaques from the saints during their exodus. The time to see the Trail of Hope is in the light of the setting sun over the Mississippi. The trail goes straight to the river. The literal setting of the sun while we were there was a figurative setting of the sun for the saints in their lovely city of Nauvoo.

That night was our last night in Nauvoo. Grant and I took Sam and Lizzie back to the temple. They had an incredible experience. Lizzie recently said that if she had the power to tele-transport she would go back to the Nauvoo temple every week. It was definitely a sacred experience for us all.

October 15 – Thurs
Leave Nauvoo drive 3 hours to  Springfield
See Lincoln’s boyhood home (2 hours)
Spend night in Springfield

Springfield was a fascinating place. Grant, the most ardent Lincoln-phile I know, was in heaven. We started at the visitors center, got our free tickets for the tour of Lincoln’s home (go as early as you can) then while waiting for our tour time we drove out to Lincoln’s tomb. The grounds were amazing, the exterior of the tomb impressive and the inside somber and inspiring. We loved the bronze sculptures inside and the many quotations.

Lincoln’ s home was well worth the wait. It was very well preserved. We loved the tour! Grant was like a kid in the candy shop! This following photo was taken by Grant and shows the original banister in Lincoln’s home. Grant loved that he was touching the same banister that Lincoln touched each morning and evening coming to and from work at the law office. It was the only thing in the home you could even touch as everything else was cordoned off and protected. Those on the tour were even asked not to lean against any walls.

After the tour we had been told that we needed to get a “Horseshoe”, a Springfield original. It is essentially an open-faced hamburger covered in fries and a cheese sauce. I’m sure there are some better ones in the city and ours were ok, I just couldn’t get over the fake cheese topping. Next time in town, I think I’ll pass on the Horseshoe! (Sam just saw this picture and said, “That was GOOD!” So maybe we’ll try again. I’ll just order a salad!)

The next morning we spent at the Presidential Library and Museum. We were told to plan on spending three hours there and I thought before hand that there was NO WAY we would possibly be there that long. We were there for four! Our hotel gave us some buy-one-get-one-free tickets which helped with the $15/adult admission but even without it, it would have been worth the cost. The waxworks and other exhibits were amazing. There are two movies that were phenomenal! This is how the museum describes one of them on their website:

“This state-of-the-art theater features layered digital-projection screens and special effects that immerse viewers in the drama of “Lincoln’s Eyes,” told by the artist who struggled to capture the sorrow, hope, vision, resolve, and forgiveness in Lincoln’s eyes.”

We liked the rumbling cannons that we could feel in our shaking seats, the “smoke” that filled the room, the flickering lights of lightning and the surround-sound experience.  It was very effective and not too scary for a five year old. The movie at the end combined a live actor and special effects that were so cool we could not figure out how they made the actor turn into a ghost! For more information go here. Parking and crowds could be problematic in the summer but we didn’t have any trouble with either.

With Springfield behind us it was time to head northward to part two of our vacation. Stay tuned!